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Barn Tips |
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Llama Beans
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Health Links |
The Llama
Directory has provided you with links to a variety of web pages that have
health information about llamas.
Go there now. |
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Fences |
To keep your llamas from rubbing on your
fences, put a street sweeper brush standing upright in your
pasture. You will need to dig a 3' hole and put in a post and then
drop the brush over the post. The bottom of the brush is a few
inches off the ground and the llamas will brush up against this instead
of your fences. Check with your city for old sweeper brushes. |
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Pastures |
Get rid of moles in your pasture.
Combine 6 Tbs. Castor Oil, 3 Tbs. dishwashing liquid and mix in your
blender. Ad 6 Tbs water. Combine 2 oz of this mixture with 2
gallons of water and spray mole tunnels or entire yard. Can be
repeated every two weeks. |
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Barn |
Barn odors: In hot, humid weather,
sometimes unpleasant odors can accumulate. There are various
products that can help this. (1) Sprinkle the area with Stall Dry;
it contains a deodorizer. (2) Sprinkle the area with a baking soda
product called Bufferight. (3) Clean the area with ammonia.
(4) or clean the area with liquid bleach. (5) Use absorbent
bedding material. |
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Grooming |
Use 1 part water to 2 parts Show Sheen in a
spray bottle (mister). Using your blower, blow the dirt from your
llama's wool and then spray-mist the wool. Let the wool dry for 15
minutes and repeat. Spray the mixture heavier on the
back of the
llamas neck where there may be more mats in the wool. The dirt
works its way out easier and makes grooming less complicated. |
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Pour 8 to 12 ounces of Mane & Tail
Conditioner in a 5 gallon bucket of warm water. Mix well and pour
over the llamas wool, soaking it to the skin. Do it early in the
morning so they can air dry. It doesn't matter if they roll.
After about 3 days, everything just falls out and their wool looks and
feels great! It's best to condition wool twice a year. |
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Feeders |
Building a "creep
feeder" is a great way to keep the older llamas out of a designated
area and allows youngsters to get to their food. You may have to
work with the crias to get them to accept it. |
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Hayracks result in being too short (only 1
or 2 adult llamas can eat comfortably from one); there is spillage of
hay and the crias find it difficult to get to. Try this: Use
plywood and 2"x4' studs to construct the feeder. The tops of
the feeders are 33" off the ground and the bottoms are 12" off
the ground. The cutouts for the crias are 14" wide and
10" deep. The distance from front to back is 20" at the
top and 12" at the bottom. The tops of the feeders and the
cria cutouts are all framed with 2"x4"s. The length is
constrained only by the space you have available. The llamas enjoy
digging down into the hay. It reduces hay spillage. |
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Heat
Stress |
Provide shade for your
llamas; cool, clean water in the shade; wet down areas with the hose
(the llamas will lay there and keep cooler); work only in cool mornings;
hose down your llamas legs, belly, head, rectal area. Don't hose
down the top part of their body. Use fans in your barn.
Signs of heat stress: flared nostrils, rapid breathing, a sawhorse
stance, staggering, walking stiff legged, refusal to stand or
walk. If your animal has these signs, get your llama into shade,
offer the llama a drink from a bucket, give the llama an enema with cool
water. Notify your vet. |
Shearing-
How to get started |
The red scissors are regular sheep
shears available through most feed or farm stores. The grey scissors
are made by Fiskars and are available through most fabric stores,
WalMart or llama supply catalogs. Never pull the llama wool up and away
from the body while cutting, as this may result in cutting the llama's
skin. Confine the llama according to its cooperation with the
shearing process. Ideally, you've worked with it enough that it will
stand quietly in a small pen, perhaps distracted by a flake of hay. If
it won't settle down, put it in a chute -- don't take chances hurting it
or yourself. When the llama has had enough, stop and give it a break.
There's no rule that shearing must be completed in one session. A llama
that becomes restless may need to use the manure pile.
Start
your cut at the topline of the llama near the base of the tail and cut toward the back of the neck. Move down a few inches and repeat.
Follow the curvature of your llama. Keep the cut fleece away from
the llamas legs as you are cutting - they don't like things wrapping
around their legs. When shearing the neck, work from back to front
in horizontal rows. You can do this and it isn't that difficult -
just take your time. |
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Shearing |
Shearing Styles:
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The "Barrel Cut".
The wool is removed only from the mid-section behind the
shoulders to the hip and around the belly. It enables minimal
cooling. |
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This style is often
referred to as the "Show Cut". Fiber is removed from the point
of the shoulder (wither) down to the arm pit, the top of the
tail down to the point where the belly meets the hind leg and
around the belly allowing for moderate ventilation. |
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Another version of
the "Show Cut" drops the back cut from the tail and goes
straight across the hip. This opens up the tail ventilation area
which is extremely important on males. |
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Shorn with hand
scissors

Shorn with electric shears |
The "Lion Cut".
This style is used on heavy-wool llamas. Everything is removed
except on the neck, lower leg, and tail. As you can see, this
cut allows for maximum ventilation and you really see what your
llama's conformation is. |
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Let's not forget the
"Nudie". This cut is used every few years to remove all the
"matted" fiber on the neck and elsewhere allowing the wool to
grow back for easier grooming. |
Where shearing is concerned,
there is probably only ONE thing that llama owners will agree upon and
that is that, it most parts of the U.S., it should be done . . . for the
llama’s personal comfort, health, and general well-being. Many people
may go to one or the other extreme – they leave too much wool on or they
shear right to the skin. Both can be dangerous. After shearing, three or
four or more inches left around the barrel of a llama can hold in as
much heat as the previous five to ten inches that was cut off. Or,
sunburn, insect bites, and hyperthermia (if the temperatures drop) can
be dangerous for an animal that is shorn to the skin but is used to
having a year round protective coating of some sort.
If you have access to Circuiteer Blower (double motor), blowing the
llama well before shearing removes a lot of dust, sand, and tiny debris
that can dull your blades quickly, hand or electric shears. When you're
blowing the llama, start at the top of the back and blow the dirt down
along the belly. This forces the dirt down and out.
If you decided to just blow your llama out, and it had a lot of knotted
and long wool, you may need to clip off some of this wool with some
large shears made for this type of work. Then you can begin shearing.
Your shearing can be accomplished by using scissors, or commercial
clippers. The clippers come in various weights and sizes. They can be
electric or battery powered. The wonderful thing about the blades is
that they can be sharpened and reused.
After you have prepared your
llama. Begin you shearing on the back starting at the top. Have a plan
or a pattern design before you start to shear. You can set your design
by parting the wool with a comb. Cut inside your design, make the
pattern smaller than you intend so you don’t over cut. It seems to be
easier if you begin cutting at the top of the back nearer the head and
neck. Think out your design and remember that you can return and
finalize the cut by making a V by the neck or a rounded edge there. This
doesn’t need to be done at the beginning of your shearing. Use
long sweeping motions to shear. Don’t cut with short chopping motions.
This seems be the most difficult part to learn when you begin to use the
electric shears.
If you are shearing with
scissors always point the scissors down. As you shear, especially the
first few times, cut higher off the skin and gradually you will learn by
practice how to lay the shears or clippers on the animal to get the cut
you desire. Then you can go back and adjust the desired height of wool
you wish to leave on the llama. Wool length that you leave will vary
with each person. We like to leave some wool on the animal because of
sun burn and insects which bite them.
Shear your llamas to
insure that they will be comfortable before the weather gets hot.
Get some Fiskar sheers with the sharpener and go for it. Shear in
the cool morning or evening, not when it's hot outside. Try to
keep the shorn wool from draping down and wrapping around their legs
(they don't usually like that)Be sure to shear around
their armpits, rear flanks and around their tails. What do you do
with all that wool? Members -- sell your
raw fiber.
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The Llama
Directory holds no liability on the information above, submitted by
breeders. |
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